The doctor's casebook

Ask anyone who's used one what a computer means to him or her, and you're likely to end up with a long list of answers. Increased productivity, better leisure time, neater documents, even easier access to pornography - all will certainly figure somewhere. But if there's one aspect of computers that unites every single user, it's their potential to frustrate.

It certainly can seem that for every minute of the day a computer saves, another three are spent fixing some problem or other. And if that statistic sounds wrong, it's only because the computer it was worked out on crashed halfway through the calculation. The problem is that computers are complicated things with little in the way of user-serviceable parts inside, and when something goes awry, a typical user has little idea what it could be.

Thankfully, a lot of the problems people face with PCs have a simple solution or at least are nowhere near as serious as they appear. In this two-part special report we look through the PC doctor's case files and present solutions for the 40 most frequently asked questions.

Our first 20 solutions are for hardware problems, and next month we'll tackle software-related issues. Read on and you may never have to stick the boot in your PC again.

IT'S DEAD JIM ...

Q: When I press the 'On' switch on my PC nothing happens, and nothing appears on the screen. It was working fine the other day and it's only three months old. Is it broken?

A: If your PC has suddenly gone from a working to a quite clearly not-working state, then the chances are that something obvious is wrong and we mean obvious.

Is the PC properly connected to the mains outlet and is the outlet switched on? Is there a power cut? Is the monitor connected and switched on?

If these solutions sound ridiculous, believe us, they're not. If PC manufacturers received £1 for every call from customers in situations just like these, they could charge less for their PCs. So before you start threatening your manufacturer with court action, check all the obvious solutions and save yourself potential embarrassment.

Q: When I switched on my PC this morning, all it did was emit a number of beeps and stop working. The beeps didn't sound like Morse Code for 'SOS', so what's the problem?

A: When a PC is switched on, it performs a quick Power On Self-Test (POST) to check all the important bits of hardware are working. If a component fails the test, it means the PC won't boot properly and an error message is produced. Audible beeps are used because the fault might prevent the display from working.

Just because a fundamental component has failed the test, it doesn't mean the fault is serious and it can be as trivial as the keyboard not being properly plugged in or one of the expansion cards having worked loose. Unfortunately, the combinations of long and short beeps vary between BIOS manufacturers and the only sure-fire way to decode them is to consult your BIOS manual or the appropriate Web site.

OOPS ...

Q: I've just bought a new PC and being the careful sort, have tried to restrict access using the BIOS password function. The problem is that I've forgotten the password and now can't use the PC. Is there a way to bypass the password or simply disable it?

A: You've just learnt the first rule of passwords the hard way - always choose one that's easy to remember. Unfortunately, there isn't an easy way to remove a BIOS password, particularly since you now need to enter the password to access the BIOS at all.

BIOS passwords are stored in dedicated memory on the PC's motherboard, called the CMOS. The CMOS is battery-powered, so that it can retain its contents when the PC is switched off and the battery - usually a lithium watch battery-type cell - is on the motherboard too.

If you locate the battery and remove it for a few minutes, the password, together with the other CMOS settings, will be erased. Alternatively, some PCs have a dedicated jumper on the motherboard for resetting the BIOS to its default settings and this should be explained in the motherboard manual that came with your PC.

Ordinarily, you should make a note of all of the BIOS settings before you change them. Then, if something doesn't work when they're changed, you can change them back. Since you've forgotten your password, you're not able to do this but while it's highly unlikely that resetting the BIOS to its default settings will have any adverse effects, it may cause your PC to run at below optimum performance.

BIGGER, BETTER, FASTER

Q: My desktop PC is three years old and although Windows 95 runs well enough, some applications are a bit slow and most new games are unplayable. It's a Pentium 90 with 8Mb of RAM and a 450Mb hard drive. Should I try upgrading it or is it better to buy a new system?

A: Before you consider upgrading or replacing your PC, think about what you need it for. If all you want is your existing applications to run faster, then a new processor or some extra RAM should do the trick.

As far as processors are concerned, Intel has a variety of OverDrive upgrade processors for Pentium PCs and these are quick and easy to install.

There's too much detail to go into here, so your best bet is to call one of the numbers at the end of this feature for some advice.

Increasing the amount of RAM in your PC to 32Mb or 64Mb will also speed things up. Your PC will probably use SIMMs (as opposed to more recent DIMMs) and you'll need to buy these in matched pairs. Depending on the number of free SIMM slots your PC has, it may be cheaper to ditch your existing SIMMs to free up the slots, but again, a helpful dealer will be able to explain the options open to you.

A word of warning though - don't rush into upgrading every component on your PC. Once you start spending more than around £250, the law of diminishing returns starts to apply and a new PC might be a wiser choice.

Keep your existing monitor, keyboard, mouse and software, and you should be able to pick up a Celeron or Pentium II-based system from a flexible dealer for no more than a few hundred pounds.

Q: I'd like to expand my notebook's 16Mb of RAM, preferably to 32Mb, but I'm not sure what I should buy. I went to a local computer shop for some advice but the assistant wasn't sure either. SIMMs and DIMMs look too big to fit into my notebook's memory socket, so what do I need?

A: Most notebook PCs require specific notebook memory modules rather than SIMMs or DIMMs. Your notebook manufacturer should be able to supply more memory but if your machine is a big-name model, it might be cheaper to buy memory from elsewhere. Compare your manufacturer's prices to those offered by the dealers listed at the end of this article.

CONFLICTS OF HARDWARE

Q: I have just bought a new PC with an internal modem. I want to use my parallel port scanner with it but don't seem to be able to get both the modem and the scanner working at the same time. When I look at the list of entries in Device Manager, the scanner has a yellow exclamation mark next to it and that's about as far as I can get.

A: This is what's known as a device conflict and it arises when two or more devices are competing for the same PC resources - usually interrupt requests (IRQs).

An IRQ is a physical connection used by devices to communicate with the CPU. When a device needs the processor's attention, it uses its IRQ to get it. There are only 16 IRQs on modern PCs and many devices can only use one or two specific ones. In other words, when a PC has two devices that both need the same IRQ, a conflict arises.

The solution to an IRQ conflict depends on the devices themselves. Some can have their IRQs altered, some can't and to find out you must open up Device Manager. Find the scanner entry and double-click it to show its properties. Click the Resources tab and you'll be able to see what IRQ the scanner is trying to use.

Uncheck the 'Use automatic settings' box and double-click the IRQ entry to change it. If Windows says it can't be modified, change 'Setting based on' to the last 'Basic configuration' entry and try again. Hopefully, you should then be able to alter the IRQ to another value and any other conflicts will be shown. If you can't change the scanner's settings, try changing the modem's in the same way. Once done, restart your PC and everything should work normally.

Q: I've just installed a new sound card in my PC but it seems to disagree with the sound card built onto the motherboard. Since I can't remove the on-board one, is there any way to disable it?

A: The best option is to look at your PC's BIOS settings for an option to disable the on-board sound and use that. If there isn't one, use the method described in the previous answer to examine the on-board sound card's properties via Device Manager. On the General tab, there's a check box under Device usage for 'Disable in this hardware profile' - tick it, reboot and the on-board sound will be disabled.

Q: I have an inkjet printer and a scanner connected to my parallel port but I'd also like a Zip drive. Is there a limit to the number of peripherals that can be connected to a PC's parallel port?

A: Yes, and it's two. You could install a second parallel port on an expansion card (see the list of contacts at the end of this article) but this isn't an ideal solution. USB is a better option, since it allows up to 127 devices to be connected to a single USB port and Iomega makes a USB Zip drive too. If your PC doesn't have a USB port, you can easily add two via the ADS PCI card from Partners in Europe.

THEY CALL HIM FLICKER

Q: My PC crashed the other day and when I restarted it, Windows appeared at a low resolution and displayed a message saying that my graphics adaptor wasn't configured properly. I cancelled the message and reinstalled the graphics card software that came with the PC. This restored the resolution but the screen now flickers so much that it gives me a headache. Is there a problem with my graphics card or monitor?

A: It sounds like reinstalling your graphics card has affected your monitor configuration, causing the refresh rate to be altered. The refresh rate of a monitor determines how quickly the image is refreshed every second and if the rate is too low, the image will flicker.

Changing the refresh rate is straightforward - right-click the Desktop and choose Properties. Click the Settings tab and then the Advanced button.

The first thing to check is that you're using the correct driver for your monitor - click the Monitor tab to find out. If not, change it to the correct one by clicking the 'Change' button and choosing from the 'list of drivers in a specific location' that Windows displays. Click the Adaptor tab and choose 'Optimal' from the Refresh rate drop-down list. Click Apply and the refresh rate should be set correctly. If the screen still flickers, try changing the rate to 75Hz or 85Hz.

MODEM LORE

Q: I bought a 33.6Kbits/s modem and have been using it for some time. A friend with a similar modem recently upgraded her model to 56Kbits/s using something called a 'flash upgrade' utility downloaded from the Web. I tried the same utility on my modem but it wouldn't work. Can it be upgraded?

A: Many modems can be upgraded in this way but to do it, you'll need a flash utility specific to your modem. 'Flashing' a modem reprograms it, usually to increase its performance. Most modem manufacturers have flash upgrades for V.90 (56Kbits/s) compatibility and you should look at your modem manufacturer's Web site to see what's available. Incidentally, your ISP has to support V.90 too if you're to take advantage of its extra download speed and there should be information on its Web site.

Q: I am considering buying a modem so that I can use my PC to send and receive faxes. Can a modem send faxes to an ordinary fax machine, and will I need any additional software?

A: All new modems have fax capabilities and will communicate with other fax machines quite happily. Your PC will need some fax software to be able to send and receive faxes but it's rare for a modem to come without this as part of the deal. Bear in mind though that your PC needs to be switched on to receive faxes and a second dedicated telephone line is advisable. If you don't fancy this, consider one of the many memory modems that can store faxes even when the PC is switched off.

Q: I recently upgraded to a V.90 modem from a 28.8Kbits/s model. I haven't noticed much of a speed increase when I connect to AOL and downloading files from the Internet still takes forever. The dealer I bought the modem from says I've installed it correctly, so what could the problem be?

A: The first thing to check is whether AOL is using the correct driver for your modem. Different versions of AOL do this in different ways but in all cases, begin by clicking 'Setup' on the AOL sign-on screen and looking for the 'edit modem' option. AOL will provide a list of modems - just click on yours to use it. You'll also have to change the AOL access number your modem dials, since there's a different one for V.90 modems. Go to AOL keyword 'V.90' to find out how to do this.

TRICKY DISKS

Q: I keep a handful of important files on a floppy disk for security reasons, since I can lock it away at night. But when I ejected the disk the other day, it got caught in the drive and removing it bent the metal sleeve that covers the exposed disk surface. The disk now won't fit in the drive and I can't bend the sleeve back in place. Will a data recovery service be able to retrieve my files?

A: Don't panic - just because the metal sleeve is damaged doesn't necessarily mean the disk is. If you carefully lift up one side of the sleeve, it will come completely away from the disk. If you spot a small spring, remove it and you can then use the disk in your PC to safely copy its contents to another floppy.

Q: After reformatting my 1.2Gb hard drive for a fresh installation of Windows 95, I decided to partition it into two separate drives using the MS-DOS FDISK program but I was informed that the maximum space available for a partition was 2Mb. What am I doing wrong?

A: The only real benefit of partitioning a drive of this size is organisational - you'll be able to keep all your programs on one drive and all your documents on the other, for example. You won't reclaim much space wasted by the filing system, since the drive isn't large enough to make it an issue.

The FDISK program will destroy any data on a hard drive, so it's essential to back up your important files before you use it. You should also create a boot floppy that loads the driver for your CD-ROM drive - use the appropriate lines from the CONFIG.SYS, AUTOEXEC.BAT and DOSSTART.BAT files. The disk should also contain the FDISK.EXE and FORMAT.COM files, usually found in the C:/Windows/Command folder.

Boot your PC from the floppy and run FDISK. Before a new partition can be created, the active partition (the C: drive) must first be deleted.

Then, you'll need to create a 'primary' partition that is smaller than the maximum space available. You can then create further partitions that use all or part of the remaining space until all of the space is taken up.

Restart your PC (with the boot disk still in the floppy drive) and then format each partition separately. Finally, you can install Windows. If this all sounds like hard work, then a program like Partition Magic is the answer. It rejigs partitions with ease and with no loss of data.

Q: I recently defragmented my hard drive and noticed that two bad clusters were reported. Can you tell me how to delete them and how they might have been created?

A: A hard disk drive can have two types of error - physical errors and logical errors. A physical error refers to a part of the disk that is physically damaged and, although they can be bypassed, these are generally bad news.

Logical errors relate to the way data is stored on the hard disk and these are far less serious. A bad cluster is a logical error and they usually arise when an application crashes or a PC suddenly loses power, leaving files in an unfinished state.

Logical errors are easily rectified using a program supplied with MS-DOS and Windows. For Windows 3.x and MS-DOS, simply type SCANDISK at the C:/ prompt and your hard drive will be examined for errors. If any are found, you can correct them.

For Windows 95 systems, choose Scandisk from Start/Programs/Accessories/System Tools. Click on the drive you want to check and then click the 'Start' button.

Q: When I try to back up my software onto floppy disks, I always get errors saying 'The file you are copying is too large for the destination drive; if possible insert a higher capacity disk.' Should I buy a removable hard drive?

A: Backing up more than a couple of important documents to floppy disks is a bad idea - you'll need a stack of them to hold just a few dozen megabytes and they're not the most reliable long-term storage medium. A tape backup drive provides the lowest cost per megabyte but a Zip 250 drive is much more versatile.

You should also be using a dedication backup application that compresses files and, if need be, spreads them across removable disks. Windows comes with its own called Backup and it's in Start/Programs/Accessories/System Tools.

Q: I use Windows 95 and recently tried to compress my hard drive. It didn't work and I got a message saying it was not possible to do this because the drive had more than 500Mb of data on it. What does this mean?

A: Early versions of Windows 95 have a 500Mb size limit for hard drives that can be compressed with DriveSpace. The FAT16 filing system these versions use cannot manage any hard drive larger than 2Gb and, to cut a long story short, when a drive larger than 500Mb is compressed with DriveSpace, it would be technically larger than 2Gb.

Later releases of Windows 95 (referred to as Windows 95b or OSR2) and Windows 98 use the FAT32 filing system, which can manage larger hard drives. You can't buy Windows 95b but Windows 98 has a utility to convert FAT16 drives to FAT32 (a difficult task otherwise).

Sadly, FAT32 drives can't be compressed with DriveSpace so if you're running out of hard disk space, a larger hard drive is the answer. Drives are getting bigger and cheaper all the time and we've been particularly impressed with Maxtor's models.

AND THE REST ...

Q: I use my PC for work throughout the day but there are periods when it isn't used for an hour or so. I always switch it off when I've finished with it to save power but a colleague has told me that constantly cycling the power on a PC can damage it. What do you reckon?

A: Constantly powering a PC up and down causes the components to rapidly heat and cool, and consequently, expand and contract. This 'thermal shock' will eventually cause damage, from cracks in the motherboard to melted adhesives. In other words, it's best to try and keep a PC at a constant temperature for as long a period as possible to reduce the effects of thermal shock.

Leaving a PC on 24 hours a day, however, is costly and a potential fire risk. The best advice is therefore to turn on a PC at the start of your working day and turn it off at the end.

Q: I want to buy a notebook PC for use on trips abroad but will it work in other countries without any extra modifications? A suitable transformer will presumably help in countries with different mains voltages but what about the modem?

A: Notebook PC power supplies can usually cope with different voltages as standard, so you won't need any kind of extra equipment beyond suitable plug adaptors. The same is true of the modem - you'll just need an adaptor to allow you to plug it into different sockets. Xircom sells a travel pack of telephone adaptors and the number is at the end of this article.

Q: I have just installed a CD-R in my PC and have created several CD-ROMs. However, a number of these have failed to write, due to what my software says is a buffer under-run. What is this and how can I stop it happening again?

A: When the CD-R is writing to a blank disc, it needs a steady stream of data and if there's a pause in the stream, the writing will fail. To help with this, CD-R drives have their own memory - a buffer - that acts as a temporary store for data read from the source drive. In theory, the buffer will always contain sufficient data to keep the CD-R drive supplied if the source drive slows or stops for some reason. If the CD-R drive empties the buffer by reading from it faster than it is filled, buffer under-run occurs.

Buffer under-run usually happens when copying directly from a CD-ROM drive. If you have a big enough hard drive, you can make an image of the CD-ROM before creating it. The CD-R will then be able to create the disc with data supplied from the faster hard drive. If your hard drive is too small, lower the write speed of the CD-R drive instead.

Q: My brother and I have our PCs in the same room and would like to connect them together for multiplayer games. Do we need to set up a network or is there an easier way?

A: The setup screens of most games with a multiplayer option include an option to select what type of connection you have to the other player. In most cases, there will be an option of 'serial link' or 'null modem'. As long as you have a 'null-modem' serial cable joining your PCs, you will be able to choose this and play. Be warned though, a normal serial cable (like the one supplied with external modems) won't work, so be careful when buying one.

CONTACTS

BEEP CODES FOR MAJOR BIOSes

American Megatrends (AMI):www.ami.com/amibios/support/beepcodes.html

Award: www.phoenix.com/pcuser/bios-award-postcode.pdf

Phoenix: www.phoenix.com/pcuser/bios-postcode.pdf

HARDWARE UPGRADES

Intel: 01793 403000 - (processors) www.intel.com/overdrive

Crucial Technology : 0800 013 0330 - (memory) www.crucial.com/uk

Kingston Technology: 0800 435978 - (processors & memory) www.kingston.com/uk

Maxtor: 00 353 1 286 6222; www.maxtor.com

Partners in Europe (Ireland): 00 353 61 702000

Xircom: 01256 332552; www.xircom.co.uk.

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